BMW 357is

Share you car build or other projects you have going on

Re: BMW 357i

Postby lowside67 » Tue Mar 01, 2011 2:32 pm

Lots of work going on behind the scenes but not many photos to take. The car has been at the bodyshop for the past week, they are sealing all the aluminum, undercoating the car where the metal has been removed, etc. There are lots of people that have really been instrumental in helping me with my monster project and I hope to recognize all of them at the right time, but I have to throw a word in for Victor and the crew at Starlite Autobody. They are the shop that built the custom flares, did all the bodywork, and repainted my BMW back in 08 and I cant say enough about how hard they have worked for me and the quality of work they have done. They are a busy ICBC express shop and yet still managed to make time to get the car in to paint the interior as they know that I am working on a pretty tight timeline to get the car ready for testing before Knox. If you need to get some bodywork or paint done, they are worth giving a call - the person to talk to is Victor at (604) 438-9898.

The car is all prepped for the first coat of POR-15 and hopefully will be back in the garage by this weekend!

Image
Last edited by lowside67 on Wed Oct 09, 2013 3:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mark Uhlmann, UBCSCC Ex-Pres
CM #51: 1998 Van Diemen
STX #67: 2011 BMW 128i
User avatar
lowside67
Senior Driver
 
Posts: 3233
Joined: Oct 2003

Re: BMW 357is

Postby lowside67 » Sun Mar 06, 2011 11:12 pm

Well the car is still at paint but the list of things left to tackle is ever growing so this weekend we figured we'd get the motor dealt with.

First step was to pull off all the stuff we were replacing... exhaust manifolds, intake manifold, fuel rail, PS pump, tensioner, and some odds and ends.

With the old LS1 intake manifold off, spent a little time cleaning up the surface, almost ready for the new manifold:
Image

Kyle after performing some magic doing the required modifications to make an LS6 (C5 Z06) intake manifold fit on the LS1 I have out of a 99 Camaro:
Image
(As you can see, Kyle doesnt just wear any old thing when working on cars, he dressed up and wore the piano tie t-shirt to celebrate the occasion!)

Once we got that all taken care of, the last thing to do before test fitting the new bellhousing to the motor was to remove the torque converter since this motor was originally paired with an automatic. The only thing is that with no air tools and an original motor that has never had these bolts out, they were hopelessly seized in place. With the help of some penetrating oil, a hammer, and some sheer luck, we managed to get 2/3 out but the 3rd was simply not having any of that. After fighting it for an hour trying everything from pliers to a propane torch, we eventually said to hell with it and ground it off since we didnt need to reuse the torque convertor anyways:

Image

Finally, the motor at the end of the day, ready for a few more odds and ends before its test fit sometime this week:
Image

Mark
Last edited by lowside67 on Wed Oct 09, 2013 4:03 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Mark Uhlmann, UBCSCC Ex-Pres
CM #51: 1998 Van Diemen
STX #67: 2011 BMW 128i
User avatar
lowside67
Senior Driver
 
Posts: 3233
Joined: Oct 2003

Re: BMW 357is

Postby crazycanadian » Mon Mar 07, 2011 7:38 am

Looks great good mark.. when you are going to install the transmission or if you have it now a good idea is to test fit the clutch disc on the input shaft of the transmission now before installing it.. make sure is goes on and once it does is moves back and forth fairly freely... also test the pilot bearing on the end of the input shaft as well to make sure it'll fit... If you can I suggest using a bushing rather then a bearing... Not sure if the transmission you have uses a standard size GM pilot bearing or not though so this might not work... GM's were had a standard size threw out most of the years and different transmissions.. Newier ones came with bearings and older ones came with bushings... I have seen a number of newier bearing type pilot bearings blow up and take out the input shaft of the transmission... I tend to swap out to bushings where ever I can... If you don't have the parts I probably have a few kicking around here I could bring down and just give you...
crazycanadian
2011-12 Executive Member
 
Posts: 708
Joined: Mar 2007

Re: BMW 357is

Postby lowside67 » Mon Mar 07, 2011 4:57 pm

Hey Adam,

We are using a Quartermaster hydraulic release bearing:
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/clutch8.htm

Unfortunately didnt get to test much out last night as we figured out pretty quickly that the bellhousing doesnt fit! Eep, back to the drawing board, hopefully they are able to figure something out for us tomorrow.

The main "guts" of the LS1 swap kit arrived from Vorshlag today...
Image

The E36 specific LS1 headers...
Image

And a totally engine swap unrelated bit, some softer springs all the way around for the AST coilovers:
Image

Mark
Mark Uhlmann, UBCSCC Ex-Pres
CM #51: 1998 Van Diemen
STX #67: 2011 BMW 128i
User avatar
lowside67
Senior Driver
 
Posts: 3233
Joined: Oct 2003

Re: BMW 357is

Postby crazycanadian » Mon Mar 07, 2011 6:31 pm

I figured you were using an aftermarket release bearing but thats not what I am talking about... The pilot bearing goes into the back of the crank shaft and supports the end of the input shaft of the transmission...

Why doesn't the Bell housing fit??? Got pictures?? GM small block bolt pattern hasn't changed in like 30 years... Even the LS series engines have the same bolt pattern... The biggest difference is in the 6.0Ls where they moved one of the bell housing bolts, but you can still bolt up and older bell hosing to it..
crazycanadian
2011-12 Executive Member
 
Posts: 708
Joined: Mar 2007

Re: BMW 357is

Postby lowside67 » Mon Mar 07, 2011 6:51 pm

That explains the bolt pattern... the main side bolts with the dowels are all fine but only 1/3 on the top fits. However, the bigger problem is it doesnt clear my ring gear!
Mark Uhlmann, UBCSCC Ex-Pres
CM #51: 1998 Van Diemen
STX #67: 2011 BMW 128i
User avatar
lowside67
Senior Driver
 
Posts: 3233
Joined: Oct 2003

Re: BMW 357is

Postby crazycanadian » Mon Mar 07, 2011 9:00 pm

lowside67 wrote:That explains the bolt pattern... the main side bolts with the dowels are all fine but only 1/3 on the top fits. However, the bigger problem is it doesnt clear my ring gear!


Shitty... What flywheel are you running??? Do you still have the ring gear bolted up that had the torque converter attatched to it??

You can run the car with out that passenger side bolt... All your torque forces are transferd threw the dowl pins.. If you want you should be able to drill out the block for that bell bolt thats missing... I believe the boss is there its just not drilled and tapped... All your bell bolts will be a standard 3/8"x1" or 1.25" bolt NC thread...
crazycanadian
2011-12 Executive Member
 
Posts: 708
Joined: Mar 2007

Re: BMW 357is

Postby Zedzag » Mon Mar 07, 2011 9:51 pm

Did you think about using the LS6 valley cover and PCV system when you switched to the LS6 intake manifold? It really cleans up the right side of the motor and since you're going the distance, I thought I'd help you spend more money LOL.
Also, how did you get the deeper LS6 intake to work with the standard LS1 steam vent lines?
Black 2002 Camaro SS - ESP
User avatar
Zedzag
Senior Driver
 
Posts: 102
Joined: Feb 2003
Location: Knee deep in V8 heaven.

Re: BMW 357is

Postby lowside67 » Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:18 pm

I did read about it but for now I just need to try and just get this car back together so I am really working hard to not let the scope creep any further. We just ground down the fins on the intake manifold and then it clears the steam lines.
Mark Uhlmann, UBCSCC Ex-Pres
CM #51: 1998 Van Diemen
STX #67: 2011 BMW 128i
User avatar
lowside67
Senior Driver
 
Posts: 3233
Joined: Oct 2003

Re: BMW 357is

Postby lowside67 » Tue Mar 08, 2011 7:24 am

Adam, I still have the stock 168 (?) tooth flexplate off of the automatic which is supposed to be what I need to mate with the new flywheel "button" and clutch combination. Any idea what LS1s came with a 153 tooth flexplate and how the starter mounts for that?

Mark
Mark Uhlmann, UBCSCC Ex-Pres
CM #51: 1998 Van Diemen
STX #67: 2011 BMW 128i
User avatar
lowside67
Senior Driver
 
Posts: 3233
Joined: Oct 2003

Re: BMW 357is

Postby crazycanadian » Tue Mar 08, 2011 7:55 am

lowside67 wrote:Adam, I still have the stock 168 (?) tooth flexplate off of the automatic which is supposed to be what I need to mate with the new flywheel "button" and clutch combination. Any idea what LS1s came with a 153 tooth flexplate and how the starter mounts for that?

Mark


Bying a new flex plate is cheap.. so I wouldn't worry to much about looking around for a used one.. you should be able to just talk to lordco or something to get the smaller one... If anything it'll probably be for an early V6 camaro or older 2.2L S10 that came with a 700R4 transmission.. 80's - 90's era... I don't know for sure if it'll have the same bolt pattern for the flex plate though.. You'll just have to take yours to match up and try it.. As for starter you can try your stock one.. if not find out the application for the smaller flex plate and try a starter for that one... If that doesn't work you should be able to get an aftermarket smaller starter that I believe has an adjustable mounting plate to bolt to the block...

So the flywheel you got bolts to the automatic flex plate??
crazycanadian
2011-12 Executive Member
 
Posts: 708
Joined: Mar 2007

Re: BMW 357is

Postby lowside67 » Tue Mar 08, 2011 8:00 am

This is what I have:
http://www.quartermasterusa.com/qm/flyw ... -4723.html

I will do some digging for a flexplate/starter combination that will work, from there, everything should be peachy. Specialty (who sourced the Quarter Master stuff for me) said that Quarter Master is okay with running the bellhousing with only 5/7 bolts since the two dowels and the 4 bolts that surround the dowels are all okay and are the most important for keeping that bellhousing on.

Mark
Mark Uhlmann, UBCSCC Ex-Pres
CM #51: 1998 Van Diemen
STX #67: 2011 BMW 128i
User avatar
lowside67
Senior Driver
 
Posts: 3233
Joined: Oct 2003

Re: BMW 357is

Postby firebirdfitzpatrick » Tue Mar 08, 2011 10:46 am

Mark, it sounds like you've got the wrong bellhousing. the GM 621 style will clear a 168 tooth flywheel, and many of the aftermarket versions have the extra bolt hole for the LS motors. Don't know if you're looking for a SFI certified but keisler has a few options http://www.keislerauto.com/vmchk/gm/gm- ... ducts.html
However I've been running my swap with just 5 of the 7 bolts for 3 years now with no problems. DO NOT drill and tap the boss you will hit a water jacket
1967 Firebird
User avatar
firebirdfitzpatrick
Novice Driver
 
Posts: 12
Joined: Oct 2003
Location: Richmond

Re: BMW 357is

Postby lowside67 » Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:05 am

I dont need SFI certified, however seems like most of the aftermarket options are. I have an aluminum bellhousing from Quarter Master, the problem is the only one that clears (the exact one you linked) is steel and 22lbs! Specialty's recommendation at this point is to take an aluminum stock bellhousing and just machine an adapter for the end to work with the Jerico, still a bit undecided.

Alternatively, I can go with a smaller clutch/flywheel/reverse starter with a different bellhousing but then I am going to have to run a 5.5" clutch which is probably a fail for standing starts (I have an 8.5" that Specialty recommended).

Mark
Mark Uhlmann, UBCSCC Ex-Pres
CM #51: 1998 Van Diemen
STX #67: 2011 BMW 128i
User avatar
lowside67
Senior Driver
 
Posts: 3233
Joined: Oct 2003

Re: BMW 357is

Postby lowside67 » Thu Mar 10, 2011 10:22 am

Paint is done!!

Image

Image

Image

Motor is going in this weekend for the first fitting, to say I am excited is a bit of an understatement!

Mark
Last edited by lowside67 on Wed Oct 09, 2013 4:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mark Uhlmann, UBCSCC Ex-Pres
CM #51: 1998 Van Diemen
STX #67: 2011 BMW 128i
User avatar
lowside67
Senior Driver
 
Posts: 3233
Joined: Oct 2003

Re: BMW 357is

Postby Behnam » Thu Mar 10, 2011 11:34 am

Mark, I'm in love with your car! Please get bored of it in a few years and put it up for sale :mrgreen:
Behnam
The Venom
 
Posts: 958
Joined: Aug 2004

Re: BMW 357is

Postby thephotonerd » Thu Mar 10, 2011 1:57 pm

LOL you think its gonna take him a couple years? Mark works on the accelerated plan for everything :lol:
User avatar
thephotonerd
Photographer Extraordinaire
 
Posts: 84
Joined: Jan 2008

Re: BMW 357is

Postby crazycanadian » Thu Mar 10, 2011 6:39 pm

lowside67 wrote:Motor is going in this weekend for the first fitting, to say I am excited is a bit of an understatement!

Mark


Nice did you get a handle on the flex plate situation??
crazycanadian
2011-12 Executive Member
 
Posts: 708
Joined: Mar 2007

Re: BMW 357is

Postby lowside67 » Thu Mar 10, 2011 6:57 pm

Not yet, going to pull off the flexplate and just bolt the transmission up without any clutch or anything to do a temporary test to begin to see where the trans crossmember will have to be, measure for the driveshaft, etc.
Mark Uhlmann, UBCSCC Ex-Pres
CM #51: 1998 Van Diemen
STX #67: 2011 BMW 128i
User avatar
lowside67
Senior Driver
 
Posts: 3233
Joined: Oct 2003

Re: BMW 357is

Postby lowside67 » Sun Mar 13, 2011 5:04 am

So Jeremy and I spent all night working on the car tonight and it was a night of both great triumph and epic defeat.

First lets go with great triumph...

No photos taken but took the rear suspension apart, cleaned and reinstalled most of it, the rest to go back in tomorrow, changed to the new rear springs at the same time.

Test fitting to confirm final seat placement so I can finish my seat brackets, pedals installed:

Image

The motor is in! (Temporarily)

Image

Tons of room on each side!

Image

Thanks to Vorshlag's high quality mounts, the motor went in with minimal fussing or swearing. The purpose of this test fit was to check bellhousing clearance with a 7.25" bellhousing with reverse mount starter in my transmission tunnel and then to mock up the transmission though it couldnt be bolted completely to this loned bellhousing, to see approximately where the shifter and crossmembers would have to be.

With the motor and bellhousing in place, epic defeat began to take over...

First was the not entirely unexpected issues with the reverse-mount starter. It ALMOST cleared, but not quite... will require pounding the tunnel or cutting it out and riveting a section over it to cover it nicely.

However, the bigger problem was with the transmission... as we began to raise it into position, it became clear that this was not going to work.

In this photo, I have removed the shifter itself and the shift rods so all you see are movable tabs that actually change the gears inside the trans. It isnt clear but this is the driver side looking straight up from the ground, these shifters are oriented vertically and move back and forth to change the gears inside the transmission. However, the transmission doesnt clear even with just these installed as it still needs to move about 3.5" forwards and 2" upwards in this photo.

Image

To add insult to injury, we just tested clearance initially with the shifter and rod ends off... however, in this photo you can see how much width they add:

Image

The net result? Complete fail. Basically to make this transmission work in my car will require cutting the driver side of the transmission tunnel and boxing in a section almost 6" wider than the current tunnel and about 12" high, which is work I would be willing to do, except that it would put the transmission tunnel squarely right where my leg needs to be! My seat has to be positioned firmly against the tunnel to allow for head clearance on the halo bar over the driver side window and with this positioning, it is hopeless to be able to clearance the tunnel.

Then as a final "screw you"... it turns out that the shifter location is pretty darn close to my stock one, though 7" offset to the driver side, and we could have reused the stock transmission cross member. This is all great except that we have moved my cockpit back around 12" to help give me more clearance in the side window, move weight rearward, etc. so I cant come within 10" of reaching the stock shifter while "belted in"...

Pretty dismayed by this update right now, while I was prepared to have to do some tunnel modification for this trans, the idea of a) cutting up the metal and b) destroying the driver ergonomics is just not something I can live with.

More tomorrow I guess.

Mark
Last edited by lowside67 on Wed Oct 09, 2013 4:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mark Uhlmann, UBCSCC Ex-Pres
CM #51: 1998 Van Diemen
STX #67: 2011 BMW 128i
User avatar
lowside67
Senior Driver
 
Posts: 3233
Joined: Oct 2003

PreviousNext

Return to Builds and Projects



Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest