99 Integra Build for AutoX

edited March 2018 in Builds and Projects
Hello,

Not sure if this is the right place to post this but anyways here it is.

Recently bought an integra to go AutoX-ing.

I've done the basic things such as coilovers, wheels(rim+tire), and general maintenance.
I am going to be competing in the STS class.

What further modifications can I do to maximize my car for its class?

Thanks

Maintenance so far:
PCV Valve
Trans Fluid
All ball joints
Air filter
Timing Belt/waterpump
camshaft seals
valve cover gasket/spark grommets
Spark plugs
plug wires and distributor
trailing arms bushings
all control arm bushings replaced with poly
shifter bushings to poly
all 4 wheel bearings
battery hold down (due to rust)
master cylinder
all brake hoses
brake fluid
brake rotor/pad
calipers rebuilt
clutch fluid

Modifications so far:
Tein Street Advance Coilovers
Enkei RP02 w/ Gt Champiro UHP1
Camber kit
Short Shifter
Rear swaybar

Comments

  • edited November -1
    Welcome to the forum! This is the right place to post cool things or questions regarding your build. There are a number of things that can be done to your car to build it for the STS class, however I am not particularly read up on the integra. The most commonly suggested mods would be to put on a sticky set of tires, have a proper alignment done, and work on the driver mods. A lot of people run RE-71 tires when dry and Continental DW if it is wet.

    SCCA posts rules to show what is limited in the STS class.
    Ryan Richman - exUBCSCC VP
    1994 Mazda Miata 1.8T - Green - SSM
    2004 Mini Cooper S - Lemon Grey
    1994 Mazda Miata 1.8NA - Blue - Doryfish (sold)
    2007 Ford Ranger - Race Truck/ family support vehicle
    2000 Audi A4 2.8 Supercharged (sold)
  • edited November -1
    you are limited to a 7.5" max wheel width. fill with appropriate tire. (RE71R is good. get it at costco)

    sway bar(s). ensure u have enough bar. especially in the rear, as it can help the car turn in and rotate.

    you'll want camber. I not sure the camber curve on your front suspension. It might warrant camber plates (or equivalent).

    racing seat is a good idea too. (there is a minimum seat weight, beware when u buy).

    as for more specific honda stuff, the Honda forums are a better source for info i think. But keep it updated here. We're interested in seeing it.
    Norman Hayton -
    2014 Mustang GT in F Street
    1999 BMW 323i for Rallycross
    2011 FSP Canadian National Champion
    2017 FS Canadian National Champion
  • edited November -1
    To build on what Norm and Ryan mentioned above:

    - Camber is definitely your friend, but unless you have adjustable upper control arms, or eccentric bushings, you can't adjust camber on your car. However, generally just by lowering, you'll get a decent amount of camber. I run around 2.5 degrees in the front and 2.0 in the rear on my CRX, and it's quite lively in the rear.

    - Ensure your suspension bushings are all in good shape, if not I suggest replacing them with polyurethane everywhere except the big RTA bushing. They generally seem to be ignored as a maintenance item, so be sure to check your bushings all around.

    - Most importantly, get as much seat time as you can, you'll start to learn where the weaknesses of your particular car are, and what you can do to correct those weaknesses. Sitting in with other similar cars can also be quite helpful.

    Good luck with the car and the build! Post up lots of pictures!
    Angelo Manousiadis
    UBCSCC Exec
    '91 Honda CRX SMF
    '15 Ford Fiesta ST HS
  • edited November -1
    Don't worry about camber. You will get what you need in the front by lowering, eventually you can go to adjustable in the rear but it's not needed at first.

    Yes, definitely go through all the bushings, ball joints and tie rod ends. Then wheels/tires, drive the car at events, then shocks and springs. The Koni SPSS valving and ground control springs are still hard to beat and they are reliable.
  • edited November -1
    thenorm wrote:
    you are limited to a 7.5" max wheel width. fill with appropriate tire. (RE71R is good. get it at costco)

    sway bar(s). ensure u have enough bar. especially in the rear, as it can help the car turn in and rotate.

    you'll want camber. I not sure the camber curve on your front suspension..

    Due to double wishbone setup, it only dropped a degree when I lowered the car 2.25"



    I've done all the basic maintenance things such as gaskets, bushings, bearings and clearances.

    For suspension, I have adjustable front and rear camber kits. I have everything zero'd out right now but will change that for handling purposes.
    I have upgraded the rear sway bar from stock (12mm) to the GSR one (14mm) and have changed the sway linkages to poly.
    For the seat, I have changed out the stock seat for the Del Sol seat which sits lower and has more bolstering.

    For wheels I am running 16x7 Enkei RP02 (were cheap, 200 for entire set) and 195/45/16 GT Champiro UHP1 tires (again, got them for cheap).

    I don't plan on doing anything to the engine (performance wise) unless I get the entire suspension setup correctly.

    Am I missing anything that I should be doing? What more should I add to my parts list?

    Thanks
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  • edited November -1
    Tires. Then get out to as many events as you can and start learning to drive and how you want your car setup.
  • edited November -1
    i personally would go down to a 15x7.5 wheel, 205/50/15 re71 tires from costco, and you will need a bigger rear bar.
    there are cost savings and performance benefits to the smaller wheel.

    the rest is driving at this point, how competitive you wanna get is up to you and your wallet. you would be in the wrong car for sts to begin with if the goal is the ultimate sts car
    i'd lose the short shifter, unless you like rebuilding gearboxes
    STR #81
  • edited November -1
    gtirnick wrote:
    i personally would go down to a 15x7.5 wheel, 205/50/15 re71 tires from costco, and you will need a bigger rear bar.
    there are cost savings and performance benefits to the smaller wheel.

    the rest is driving at this point, how competitive you wanna get is up to you and your wallet. you would be in the wrong car for sts to begin with if the goal is the ultimate sts car
    i'd lose the short shifter, unless you like rebuilding gearboxes
    Nick, this post is a year old!

    -Mark
    Mark Uhlmann, UBCSCC Ex-Pres
    BM #51: 2004 Stohr WF1
    STX #67: 2011 BMW 128i (sold 2019)
    DSP #67: 1997 BMW 328is (sold 2012)
  • edited November -1
    its been so long since ive been at autox im going crazy
    STR #81
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